Flash OSHI Mesh on your node

• Meshtastic. Same radio settings, channels and encryption. An OSHI Mesh node talks to Meshtastic nodes, relays their traffic, and the official Meshtastic apps still work with it.
• Through Meshtastic relays. OSHI messages travel on their own encrypted channel, so ordinary Meshtastic nodes (routers included) carry them onward without being able to read them. Only nodes set to relay their own channels alone (LOCAL_ONLY, KNOWN_ONLY) will not.
• Extra between OSHI Mesh nodes. Messages up to 11 KB split and reassembled, a delivery receipt for the whole message, and messages kept on the radio until the recipient comes back.
• MeshCore. A radio listens to one network at a time. To reach MeshCore, a site runs the OSHI–MeshCore bridge: one computer, two radios, one per network. The bridge is tested in software, not yet on air.
• Open source. The firmware and the protocol are on GitHub (GPL-3.0), documented so other devices, firmwares and apps can use them.

1. Power the node on. Unplug it from the computer and give it power — USB or a battery. It starts on its own.
2. Pair it in the OSHI app. On your iPhone: OSHI → Settings → LoRa Node. The node shows up over Bluetooth within a few seconds; tap it.
3. Choose your region. A freshly flashed node starts with no region and will not transmit at all — it pairs, reports "connected", and sends nothing. Pick your region on that same screen and press Set region.

Region is a legal setting, not a preference: which frequencies and what power a radio may use is decided by your country's regulator. OSHI suggests one from your phone's locale and asks you to confirm it.

1. Reads the chip so it can refuse a board the firmware isn't for. A mismatched image is how a node gets bricked, so this check is not skippable.
2. Erases the flash completely, then writes each image at the offset the firmware's own installer specifies — never a guessed address.
3. Reads back what it wrote and compares, so "done" means verified rather than "no error was thrown".

Some very common nodes — the RAK WisBlock boards, the LILYGO T-Echo, anything built on a Raspberry Pi Pico — use a different chip that the button above cannot talk to. They are not harder to install; they just work another way, and no cable trick will make the flasher on this page reach them.

1. Download the file for your board from the list below. It ends in .uf2.
2. Plug the board in and put it into drive mode. On most boards you press the reset button twice, quickly. A USB drive then appears on your computer, the way a memory stick does.
3. Drag the .uf2 file onto that drive. The board copies it, restarts on its own and the drive disappears. That is the whole install — there is nothing to verify by hand.

The SenseCAP T1000-E and T1000-S are sealed and have a single button, so they cannot bring up the drive the way a board with a reset button does. What works here: with the tracker connected, run meshtastic --enter-dfu (the Meshtastic command-line tool). A drive named T1000-E appears after a few seconds, and the drag-and-drop step above then works exactly as written — that is how both of our trackers were flashed. Seeed also describes a manual sequence: hold the button down and, without letting go, connect the magnetic charging cable twice in quick succession. That one has not produced a drive here, and we are looking into it with Seeed. One detail that misled us: the drive is called T1000-E, while the tracker's USB name is T1000_E_BOOT even when it is running normally — so that name alone does not mean the bootloader is running.

Two boards are different again: the Wio-E5 and the RAK3172 are STM32, and their firmware is a raw .bin that needs STM32CubeProgrammer or a DFU tool. Neither a browser nor a drag-and-drop drive can install it, so no file for them is offered here.

These files are built by OSHI from the public source code, from the same version as the images above. Checksums are in SHA256SUMS.txt next to them.